The lines can often be blurred when it comes to catwalk and real world ensembles. With the former displaying a somewhat extravagant view for even the most conservative of houses. This season however the tables turned slightly as many brands sought to display a clear brand message and fuse both commercial well being with forward thinking innovations – curating collections that were precise, elaborate and wearable. Below we present our selection of shows from across Milan, Paris and London.
Milan
The Italian capital offered up it’s usual eclectic array of tailoring, knits and prints – seen most evidently in Salavatore Ferragamo and Missoni. Ferragamo displayed a clean silhouette that took its depth from textures and motifs, in hues of deep purple and off white. While Missoni showed elaborate knitwear paired with wearable casual pieces to create slightly nomadic ensembles. The two however were a juxtaposition to Giorgio Armani who was clinical in his looks. Inspired by the processes of life, the Italian giant had a far more relaxed outlook. The clothes were ballooned in shape (but not oversized) and the palette was a fusion of navy, black and burnt orange. Although very easy on the eye it was the nod towards casual conservatism that stood out most – showing the easy nature of men in todays world.
To contrast the classics Ferragamo has decided to place modern graphics in popping colors. The house presents them on warm knitwear to brighten up the winter season
Paris
Casual ideals took centre stage in Paris as most brands turned there back on the formal visuals that had been on offer in previous years. Acne Studios took basics and adapted them for everyday activity. Double breasted jackets were deconstructed and sport like while half raglan sleeves added just enough movement to create a far more relaxed collection. Wooyoungmi continued this theme with shades of deep green, camel and dusty blue. Inspired by David Hockney’s exhibition ‘The Arrival of Spring’ the team of Madame Woo and Katie Chung enlarged motifs in an array of shades that contrasted the exuberance of the bolder colours in the show.
Male models walk the runway during the Wooyoungmi Menswear Autumn/Winter 2016-2017 during Paris Fashion Week on January 23, 2016 in Paris, France.
London
London maintained its mix of streetwear innovators and sartorial legitimacy in a season that featured a rejuvenated Craig Green and well though out Thom Sweeney. Craig Green’s uniformity was the perfect base for deconstructed tops and protective headpieces. This was in contrast to Thom Sweeney whose sartorial influences took a casual turn. Classic three piece suits were layered over t-shirts and crew neck jumpers in puttied hues of charcoal and beige. Yet among the fusion of smart and casual was the formulaic nature of Dunhill. Classic in both atmosphere and styling, the presentation was the epitome of the house – making strong references to its motor history throughout. This meant oversized shearling, luxurious cashmere’s and racing blousons – the perfect accompaniment
Celebrating the key pillars of the British gentleman’s lifestyle, whether he is out for an occasion, in at his gentleman’s club, or escaping to the countryside, Dunhill Autumn Winter 2016 is a complete wardrobe updated to accommodate contemporary demands.
