Le Beau Male Perfumer – Francis Kurkdjian

Le Beau Male Perfumer – Francis Kurkdjian

Over the course of nearly twenty years of collaboration with Jean Paul Gaultier, Francis Kurkdjian has created several fragrances of desire, true to the designer’s signature. In anticipation of the arrival of Jean Paul Gaultier’s new fragrance, Francis Kurkdjian talks about Le Beau Male.

Isn’t it risky to reinterpret a legendary fragrance?

Not at all in this case, since I created the original Le Male accord in 1995. With hindsight, there were some obvious choices, such as preserving the fragrance’s original structure and sequence of accords while stretching the note to the maximum.


Can you explain how you stretched out this fresh facet?

Fresh top notes are an essential feature of men’s fragrances. I therefore preserved the fresh offensive based on a classic and timeless cologne accord, but I re-dosed all the raw ingredients of the original formula to achieve an intense freshness. The oriental facet is toned down here against the aromatic tone that intensifies the take-off and bursting quality.


What about the lavender?

Manipulated in every facet of its freshness, lavender is still the backbone of the fragrance. I doubled the dose of mint to accentuate its wet, cold facet, which is then enhanced by mugwort, an ideal component of the masculine olfactory wardrobe. Sage is also doubled to contribute to this slightly jasmine-like freshness. The initial accord was based on the idea of redefining lavender to achieve an allegorical interpretation of vanilla. Le Beau Male, on the other hand, conveys pure – but very sexy – freshness.


Can you elaborate on this desire for sensual freshness?

It’s a new interpretation of freshness that is not at all lacking in emotion. In fact it’s quite the opposite – this new freshness is pure sensuality. Vanilla’s presence has been reduced tenfold, while the sandalwood notes are much more refined, suggesting sensuality. I also reworked the musky base accord to convey a whiter dimension, still with this idea of white-hot skin and clean sweat. Almost as if the skin were sweating the fragrance.


Does Le Beau Male tell a new story of men?

Absolutely. Eighteen years separate the creation of these two fragrances, but it still remains a story of intensely sensual, sexual men. Le Beau Male leads into a caressing, torrid and addictive sensuality. Almost as if you put the perfume on, took an icy cold shower and came out with the perfume still on!


How would you qualify Le Beau Male in relation to the other fragrances you have created for Jean Paul Gaultier, such as Gaultier2, Ma Dame or Fleur du Male?

I have been very lucky to work with Jean Paul Gaultier for a number of years now. Le Beau Male gave me the opportunity to create a fresh trail in which I could re-experience the story of Le Male. Unique sensuality is crucial; it’s the trademark of all Jean Paul Gaultier fragrances.

Le BEAU MALE (75 ml – £39.50, 125 ml – £56.00) by Jean Paul Gaultier will be available nationwide from the 4th February 2013

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