Displaying their usual array of innovation and subtle progression, Fashion Weeks are generally a time to absorb what the next six months have in store. Yet this year was different. Brands were smarter – more commercially focused and, most importantly, true to their origins. We take a look at the worlds’ recent offerings from Paris, Milan and London.
PARIS
The French capital was notably louder in its approach to Menswear this season with prints, texture and expressive silhouettes being a focus. Particularly seen in Wooyoungmi, who demonstrated a delicate approach to the season with loungey fabrics and pleats being a point of note. Kenzo however was far more straight forward with digital prints being the base for light tailoring in hues of green and black. Of note though was the distinctively diverse collection by Thom Browne. Although his shows are notably alternative his garments remain a true sense of wearability. This season was no different, with the (at times) laughable backdrop of the beach and shark heads (worn on models) yet each look was true to the Thom Browne aesthetic. Cropped jackets were key in facets of light hues and the traditional colour scheme of blacks and greys. Desirable; both at the time but also in retrospect.
MILAN
Stylistically, tailoring was at the forefront of the collections in Milan, as it tends to be, yet their seemed to be a forward thinking approach to the traditional suit . Leaders of this idea were the likes of Canali and Pal Zileri – with the latter breaking it down with a t-shirt and technical parka. The more relaxed approached followed through most of the houses and Versace displayed thought out looks reminiscent of its garments in yesteryear. Gone were the ostentatious boldness of previous seasons, this year had a clean sporting like approach. The garments were lightweight and coats were a particular focus, with open weave materials being placed over silk shirts and and unstructured tailoring. This was the Versace of old. Wearable, loose and masculine.
LONDON
With the larger houses taking a step back, this year really was about youthful brands with fresh ideas. CMMN SWDN lead with shades of pastels, showing wearable, relaxed looks inspired by the surroundings of Morocco. While Phoebe English translated her womenswear aesthetic to masculine and formal shapes. Yet among these it was the familiar faces of Agi & Sam that stood out. Although relatively young, in brand years, they have had a presence on the schedule for a few seasons. In a much more mature collection the duo showed their appreciation for the male wardrobe with classics such as trench coats and double breasted jackets. These were alongside more overt pieces such as white cowskin jumpers and 70’s style shirts. Yet it was the consistency of collection that showed that they have legs in a market that is starting to gain pace. In turn displaying ensembles that were the perfect combination of commercial viability and stylistic forward thinking.
