World Fashion Week
Autumn Winter 2020
Of note this year was not the elongated silhouettes, unwearable pants or unnecessary motifs — it was the maturity of which some of the youthful brands that took to the stage.
A Cold Wall (showing in Milan) for example exemplified growth in every look, which was true to its modern visuals that were shown with updated ideas, feelings and tones. Suiting was shown for example in a noticeable but necessary change for the brand that has long had a narrative in contemporary streetwear.
The underground continued to rise though, as concepts were not only thought through but also executed with efficiency in shows like Undercover and Rhude (who integrated vans into formalwear) showing that it had a back bone to its laid back style.
London notably has seen a shift towards the up and comer with Paria / Farzaneh showing a wearable collection with a clear cultural story — a distinguishable highlight for the UK’s capital.
This is not to say that luxury houses did not deliver. Virgil Abloh’s Louis Vuitton continued to soar through his heaven inspired silhouettes as did Kim Jones’ Dior, which was inspired by the late Judy Blame. With all that being said, it is poignant to value that the face of menswear is changing.
Growing, moving and shaping with the times and each collection resembled that in someway. Maybe, just maybe — the game is changing.