This Winter, Veuve Clicquot invited chef-sommelier Magnus Nilsson of Fäviken Magasinet to Hôtel du Marc in Reims to prepare their winter feast.
Captured on film, this short documentary captures the preparation and delivery of Magnus’s winter feast, providing an insight to his culinary philosophy, seasonal musings and devotion to terroir. In preparation for his feast, Magnus is seen foraging in the vineyard at Verzy and its surrounds for leaves, moss, roots and branches to be used later in the kitchen of Veuve Clicquot’s private mansion Hôtel du Marc. Meeting one of Veuve Clicquot’s wine makers in the magnificent cellar beneath the city of Reims, Magnus, who initially joined Fäviken as its sommelier, chooses a flight of champagnes to accompany his dishes.
Back at Hôtel du Marc, Magnus shares the highlights of his menu: Scallop “i skalet ur elden” (Fäviken’s iconic dish); Lobster with rosehips and a fermented juice of mushrooms; Porridge, fermented root vegetables, dried chives and a light beef broth filtered though foraged leaves; woodcock breast, leg and head; and a wooden box filled with goodness.
This is by no means a “how to” video, but rather an aspirational mini documentary about cooking on a winter’s day, filtered through some fallen leaves and Magnus’s experience.
“The cooking is very simple but it’s not simplistic.” – Magnus Nilsson
The Winter Feast
The Winter Feast dishes and champagnes Following an aperitif of Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label, the perfectly fresh, large hand dived scallops are cooked over an open fire of vines and spruce branches with a small lump of birch tree coal sat smoldering amongst them. The scallops steam on the barbeque and are served in their dense juices to be eaten and drunk directly from the half shell. The champagne Magnus chooses to pair with this dish is Veuve Clicquot Vintage 2004.
Lobster with rosehips and a fermented juice of mushrooms is a delicate dish with rosehip berries, dehydrated flowers and a preserved mushroom juice which seasons in the manner of a light but complex soy sauce. It is perfectly accompanied by Veuve Clicquot Rosé Vintage 2004.
A mixture of grains and seeds are used to make Magnus’s porridge with fermented root vegetables and dried chives. The dish is finished off with a crystal clear beef broth filtered through winter leaves. The aroma and flavour of this plate instantly evokes a European woodland winter. This dish is exquisitely paired with Veuve Clicquot La Grande dame 2004.
The body is plucked and the head skinned and poached, before the woodcock parts are placed in a pan and skillfully cooked. This surprisingly alluring dish is served simply with a tangle of root vegetable ribbons and a glass of Veuve Clicquot Cave Privée Rosé 1989.
“Magnus Nilsson’s approach is appealing on many levels: seasonality, natural preservation and a gentle touch are all elements of a nevertheless uncompromising process to produce a sublime result.” – Stephane Gerschel, International Communications Director, Veuve Clicquot.
A wooden box filled with goodness was enjoyed with a bottle of Veuve Clicquot Cave Privée 1990 before Magnus urges everyone to try a shard of pine resin “gum”, which draws a definite full stop on both the meal and palate.
