You would be forgiven for thinking of the connection between shipbuilding and sparkling wine as ceremonial.
Simply a famed tradition from times past, a superstition where a bottle was smashed against the hull of a new vessel to grant it “luck” as it prepared for its maiden voyage.
I was soon to find out that the link runs far deeper than that, a link of craftsmanship and shared respect for both the purity of natural materials, and the process that transforms them into something special.
At least that’s how Peter Freebody & Co continue to build their boats, lovingly handmade from wood adjacent to the River Thames. As I walked through their boatyard in Hurley, I was struck by the stillness of the space, exuding peace, punctuated by the sound of boats being built, amidst the backdrop of bronzed wood ships gently bobbing in the harbour.
I was joined at the 300-year-old family boatbuilding business by my hosts, British sparkling wine company, Roebuck Estates. Although seemingly worlds apart, this marriage of crafts was not one of convenience, but of utmost respect. At intervals throughout the day I’d catch master shipbuilder Richard Freebody exchanging pleasantries with Roebuck Estates CEO Michael Kennedy. No competition, just a comparison of notes, each seeking to better understand the other’s craft.
“We say that a wine is made in the vineyard, so it’s important to have craft in the vineyard.”
Michael tells me, as he recounts the story of Roebuck Estates since their inception in 2013, and the progress they’ve made in that time. Their debut vintage was launched in 2019, establishing their reputation for elegant, complex wines, often leading to comparisons with wines from the Champagne region. They now craft more than 280,000 bottles a year making them one of the largest producers of sparkling wines in the UK.
This comes as little surprise, as it’s all part of a carefully considered path of craftsmanship—a strategic plan with the right team to execute. Their Head of Viticulture Jake Wicks has got over 20 years in viticulture management and he’s also a qualified winemaker, as is Danielle Whitehead, their Head of Marketing. Together, they form part of Roebuck Estates blending team, responsible for crafting their vintage wines.
“We counted it up recently and the blending team has about 130 years of wine experience combined.”
Which I suppose is expected, especially when I learn of the enormity of their task. Each of their six parcels of land in Sussex & Kent is divided into smaller blocks, with each block requiring regular individual assessment. When it comes to harvest, to assure the right ripeness of fruit, acceptable levels of acidity and vibrancy of flavour, it is the task of Jake to decide if each block is ready, or if they need more time. Even delaying harvesting a block by a day can make all the difference to the flavour—it really is that precise.
“When you think about English wines you think about freshness, and one of the advantages we really have as a region in terms of temperatures is— with the climate change—the weather is now warm enough to ripen the fruit, but we also still get cool evenings. We need cool evenings to retain the acidity, and the freshness that English wine is all about.”
Michael Kennedy, CEO, Roebuck Estates
While the freshness is one of English wine’s trademarks, Roebuck Estates, want to push beyond that stereotype and produce sparkling wine of sufficient complexity to challenge our not-too-distant neighbours over the English Channel. What further sets them apart from other sparkling wines is their approach to vineyard management, married with the art of blending, and long lees ageing—their focus from a craft point of view.
“Ideally, we want to age our wines for a long time,” Michael tells me, “We want to marry up that freshness with added richness and complexity.”
This ongoing commitment to ageing and the craft of wine making has led to their most special creation to date, Rare Expressions No. 96. With only 1,600 bottles released, the 96 refers to the number of months this release has spent ageing.
A classic “Champagne” blend of Chardonnay (47%), Pinot Noir (38%), and Pinot Meunier (15%), Rare Expressions No.96 has a deep golden colour, which translates into a rich, exceptionally well-balanced wine. Delicate bubbles deliver a velvety texture, leaving a long, lingering finish. On the palate, expect the sweetness of honey merged with baked apples, and a biscuity richness, coated with hints of walnuts and candied citrus peel.
“We tasted the wine every year to assess its evolution in bottle, a process that quickly proved that ageing sparkling wines is not linear! However, after 96 months, the wine tasted incredible – deliciously rich, yet still refined, with layer upon layer of complexity – so it felt like the perfect moment to disgorge it.”
Jake Wicks, Head of Viticulture, Roebuck Estates
Launched during English Wine Week (June 21st–29th, 2025), this latest arrival follows last year’s very successful Rare Expressions No.19 release, a 2019 vintage that became a sommelier favourite, and is currently available by the glass at the lauded Mandarin Oriental.
Witnessed in tandem, this comparison of craft and technique between two disparate industries has been enlightening, and has also served to highlight a further truth: a craft-minded approach is very much English heritage, regardless of if the company has been around for 300 years, or if they are a burgeoning winery, just over a decade old.
