International Fashion Weeks and more notably Parisian and Milanese houses are at an interesting point. Decorated in heritage yet fully aware of the casualness that surrounds the industry. The influx of sportswear has somewhat left some brands with a question. Capitalise on the present day or make a statement for the future?
We have seen two answers from the industry leaders. Louis Vuitton went with the up and (still) coming Virgin Abloh. With a panache for loose luxury, the well esteemed newcomer mixed eccentricity with overtones of street personality. Draped in both fitted and louche casualwear the ensembles felt credible yet were a far stretch from the house of the past. Dior Homme on the other side went for proven talent in Kim Jones. Having taken Vuitton so far it was almost strange to have him now governing the next phase of Dior Homme. There were sporting references in the form of layered jersey but also detailed tailoring – a nod to formality that has become synonymous with the brand.
While both of these were notable headlines Dunhill also shone. International and reinvigorated by a departure from London the thought-out story was one of utility and elegance. Leathers played host with clinical shapes in tones of mustard and forest green – representing formal days of the past.
Milan offered similar familiarity with the likes of Missoni and Corneliani empahsising the need for consistency. Stella McCartney was refreshing also, a play on British colours mixed light knitted textures with bellowing pants, a reference to the bohemian attitude of many.
Yet it was Ermenegildo Zegna Couture’s forward thinking show that stood out the most. The juxtaposition of technique and spaciousness was immediately felt. This season saw oversized fits and technical fabrics combine to fuse emphatic ensembles. It seems like the modern wardrobe is constantly evolving under the stewardship of Alessandro Sartori, yet his delivery is often reminiscent of the houses timeless heritage.
