It’s 1784. England is on the cusp of the Industrial Revolution and experiencing the driest 12 months on record.
The therapeutic thrum of waterwheels and hollow clatter of hooves is the soundtrack of the day. There’s no clanging of construction to mar the mood. No UberX drivers impatiently honking their horns. Only the indistinct chatter of workers threatens to overpower the trickling water that runs through a quiet valley in Derbyshire. The new home for the county’s cotton mill.
It is here, at John Smedley’s Lea Mills, the oldest manufacturing knitwear factory in the world, where Malloch’s founder and creative director, Chris Chasseaud, decided to photograph his latest creation.
The Cromford, a polo shirt named after a village adjacent to the Smedley factory, is the outcome of a new collaboration. A joint venture between two brands united by a single ethos. One which celebrates timeless style and upholds the integrity of British manufacturing.
For Chris, the collaboration is deeply personal. Over a decade ago, he bought a vintage John Smedley polo. A piece he admired so much that it became a constant in his wardrobe. One which would eventually become the starting point for the Cromford you are introduced to today.
With a classic fit and large(ish) collar reminiscent of the styles your grandfather would wear, the top gives a nod to that original design he never took off. It has been moulded by Malloch’s signature style but made from John Smedley’s 30-gauge Sea Island cotton. A fibre that has been spun in the brand’s factory in Matlock since 1922.
Also known as black seed, it is breathable, hypoallergenic and super soft. And by anyone who knows their stuff, is considered the highest grade cotton in the world (as well as the the rarest). We’ll call it the king of cottons.
Every element has been carefully considered, right down to the buttons. These were personally chosen by Chris. He insisted on using the fisheye variety to honour his vintage find, sourcing them from Courtney & Co., an independent British button maker from Gloucestershire. It’s a small detail, perhaps, but entirely necessary. And a detail befitting a partnership with a brand that carries over 200 years of heritage.
Inside Lea Mills, the spirit of that heritage is everywhere. In the walls. In the air. There’s a faint tang of wool fibres and you can almost feel the warmth of working hands. There is a wonderful rhythm to the place. One that is now unfortunately, increasingly, hard to come by. You hear the whirr of spindles, the clack of needles and, just outside, the steady rush of the Derwent.
To walk through the factory is to understand the passion that is stitched into every garment. A devotion that has ensured John Smedley has remained at the forefront of knitwear since the 18th century.
That same devotion lies at the heart of Malloch’s. Chris founded the label with a vision of celebrating British manufacturing. He wished to create garments that transcend trend. For him, it has always been about craft and skill. Proper clothing you want to wear again and again. Inspired by Hollywood legends, as well as the average Joe. Fishermen, farmers and foresters.
The Cromford is therefore more than a great polo shirt. It is the outcome of bringing together past and present; one that has clothed icons from Marilyn Monroe to The Beatles, and a younger brand determined to champion the same ideals for the future.
Available in five versatile shades — navy, khaki, light grey, white and French navy — each one has been chosen for its timeless appeal. Looking just as good with selvedge denim as it does with chinos or trousers, it is a welcome addition to any wardrobe. The kind of piece that earns its place not just for this season, but for many to come.
