In London at No. 20 on Berkeley St there is a such a place, a venue steeped in Japanese cuisine—including sushi of course, but of more interest to me was their approach to the menu, preferring Japanese home-cooked dining options to more archetypical, clichéd Japanese options. This concept is known as its “Katei Ryōri”; a combination of nostalgia and modern gastronomy.

The masterminds behind this brave direction are the triumvirate of Culinary Director and third-generation sushi master Chef Endo Kazutoshi, Executive Chef Chris Golding and Head Sushi Chef David Bury.

Called NIJŪ—meaning 20—the restaurant itself is much like a home, more akin to a member’s club than an eatery, with a fusion of an at times traditional British aesthetic interwoven with undeniable minimalism of Japanese culture. An aesthetic that also provides the reassuring backdrop needed to truly enjoy homely food, warm and inviting while still brimming with the sense of occasion.

In essence, this is the Katei Ryōri experience brought to life; simple without being simplistic, and soul-nourishing, reminiscent of those lovingly prepared by parents and grandparents over the ages in Japan. The idea of using locally sourced ingredients is continued too with traditional Japanese elements sourced from around the UK, such as wasabi made in Norfolk.

As the dishes come out conversation ensues with the sommelier, with wine and sake pairings to suit the nuances of each dish, putting you at ease and lending weight to the homely atmosphere the venue exudes. As Chef Chris Golding explains the courses we talk about his journey with Japanese cuisine, and how it began at the age of thirteen, his grandma got him a job washing dishes in a Japanese restaurant after school. The energy and the conversation in the kitchen were what inspired him to be a chef today. Despite journeying through more Michelin star European restaurants, he found his way back to Japanese cuisine; a kitchen in which he always felt most at home.

The NIJŪ experience doesn’t stop there, as nestled on the lower floor is a bar that was recently ranked the 61^st best in the world. Called Nipperkin, the bar has space for around 18 guests, each allocated an intimate yet involved space to enjoy a choice drink and some hip-hop. Yes, you read that right, centred at the heart of the bar are two turntables and a selection of vinyl that guests are open to peruse and request.

It reminded me somewhat of a 1970’s Japanese listening bar, a subset of the kissaten (coffeehouses), that punctuate Tokyo. the focus is on more earthy, umami drinks, changing with the seasons and finished with what they call a “last touch”. Steering clear of ostentatious visual aesthetics, the idea is that any embellishment should be to the flavour profile of the drink itself; so instead orange oils are spritzed over the drink itself, in favour of a more cumbersome orange peel.

Thoughtful to the last, NIJŪ is a reassuringly homely escape from home.

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