Norwegian Rain has been making a steady rise to prominence for the past few years, with select international retailers stocking their functional outerwear.
Surprisingly though, the UK has been one of the tougher markets to break into, despite the reasonable wet climate. However, that was all about to change, as they embarked on an exciting pop-up with the COAL project in Knightsbridge’s Harvey Nichols.
Siting with Alexander Helle and T-Michael, just hours before they set up their space in Harvey Nichols, we touch on how these two unlikely colleagues ended up working together. Alex was a business graduate who had a desire to make quality raincoats with an ethical DNA. He approached designer T-Michael who had his tailor shop in Bergen, Norway, and from there they slowly embarked on setting up the label.
[Michael] We started Norwegian Rain because there was a need for it – at least in Bergen anyway. Alex popped into my shop and asked if I’d be interested in teaming up with him to make raincoats. I declined – it wasn’t the kind of thing I did and I politely declined. He approached again and I thought why not sit down and have a talk about it – that way I might be able to persuade him on the way I’m thinking and my philosophy. I pointed out that I was into tailoring; focusing on textures and fabrics – and if we were to do raincoats they had be based on what I stood for. The good thing was that Alex thought the same way and from then on it became a mission of doing something that no-one had done before.
While doing his Masters in Milan, Alex formed the concept and basis of Norwegian Rain. Most importantly, he had teamed up with someone who could help him realise it.
[Alexander] That’s where Michael came in. I knew he was the one to take it further. If you go to his shop in Bergen, it’s not just about tailoring. When you say tailor, you can have many associations – but you can see he’s as much an artist as a tailor. Tailoring is great, but he gives something extra. That’s why I felt this is the guy I needed to work with and do something really different. In my mind I just knew I had to work with this guy.
[Michael] I said to Alex, if we’re going to do this, we’re going to go in and take our time. It had to be spot on from day one. There has to be a calmness in what we’re doing. We know where we want to get to and if we’re not there yet we’ll keep going. That also translates into the products, the designs and the solutions. They’re not quick fixes.
Searching for the right fabric was a bit of a hurdle as lots of chemicals are traditionally used in waterproof materials. They pushed the supplier to remove the harmful elements. That way they could get a product that was exactly as they wished and matched their standards. Michael explained that they didn’t want to rush – they just did what they needed to do. So they took their time, being very directional, “Even if it took us two or three years we just wanted to get it right” Michael says.
They searched high and low and eventually narrowed it down to three suppliers that had something similar to what they were after “We were looking for something that didn’t scream high-tech, something that didn’t scream technical fabric, something that didn’t scream zippers. We wanted something that was really down to earth and which you could almost mistake for a woollen cloth. Those were the parameters we wanted to work within.”
Getting feedback from their customers back home in Bergen – where a lot of the population now wears one of their coats – really helps the duo make decisions on altering elements. Alex and Michael go back to their clients who make comments or suggestions and show them what they’ve added in future collections.
[Alexander] It’s different when customers talk about functions – that’s where we really need to listen.
[Michael] We mirror ourselves in our customers and what they want. You want to make them happy as well. Whatever they want to talk to you about, you entertain it and give them a chance to talk about it and seek to make it better. Next time we meet them we can show them what we’ve done to make it better. That relationship and feedback keeps us on our toes.
It’s impressive to witness their attention to detail and desire to want to make exceptionally good products. Michael tells me they spend hours every day discussing ideas and challenging themselves – often getting lost whilst in conversation.
Resulting in such works as a shearling winter coat made with a new innovation in wool fibres – using nylon to open up the wool and work in the same way as polyester padding. Being wool, the coat is more breathable and aerothermal – allowing the material to be tighter and retain warmth.
Leaving the cafe they head off to Harvey Nichols where prepping for the space will take place. Their hands on approach is admirable – “We always set up our own spaces and shows” Alexander admits “We want to get our hands dirty – that is where the real fun is.”
